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Mastering the Mysteries and the Myth of Champagne

 
  There's no better way to ring in the New Year than with celebratory toast and a sparkling wine. Here's how to choose and serve bubbly with the best.



There's a legend about the invention of champagne. Dom Perignon, a Benedictine monk living in 17th century France, was experimenting in the wine cellars of his abbey, when suddenly he called out "Come brothers, hurry! I am drinking stars!" The story is a myth, but the imagery is real.

A great champagne, dazzling and flirtatious, tastes like the first burst of romance. Is it any wonder champagne is the popular choice for life's happiest celebrations: the dawn of a new year, an anniversary, a wedding?

"Champagne is so celebratory. The bubbles seem to spring from nowhere. It's an expression of joie de vivre," says Tom Stevenson, a noted champagne expert and author who lives near Oxford, England.
 
What's in a name
By strict definition, champagnes are sparkling wines produced in the Champagne region of France to certain specifications. Award-winning sparkling wines are produced elsewhere - notably in California, Spain, and the Asti region of Italy - but they can't technically be called champagnes.

The sparkling wine you choose for your party will depend upon your personal preferences and your budget. As a rule, if you're looking for value - something that tastes great and costs less than $15 a bottle - you're more likely to find it in a sparkling wine.

French champagnes are more expensive, but worth the price, according to Stevenson. In his book, The Millennium Champagne & Sparkling Wine Guide (DK Publishing, Inc. 1998), Stevenson recommends purchasing the best-quality sparkling wine or champagne you can afford. "There's nothing worse than a cheap champagne," he says.

You'll get greater satisfaction from your selection if you serve it appropriately. For example, a fine, dry (or brut) champagne is not the best choice of beverage to serve with an intensely sweet dessert. A sweet, sparkling wine, such as an Italian Asti Spumanti, is perfect to pour and sip with holiday cakes and sweets. Save the brut champagne for a solo performance, such as the New Year's toast.
 
Champagne myths
As with any long tradition, the tradition of serving sparkling wines has gathered its share of faulty lore and misperceptions. For example, it's commonly thought that dry sparkling wines are better. Don't prejudge the wine's quality by its sugar content, though, Stevenson urges. A sweet Asti Spumanti can have balance and finesse.

And don't be swayed by old Fred Astaire movies. Never serve sparkling wine in a saucer-shaped goblet. You're buying an elegant wine and it should be served in a flute, a tall, tulip-like glass designed to showcase the finest attributes of sparkling wines. The narrow shape lets the bubbles slowly dance up the glass, lingering longer.

How much of a good thing
You have control over when, and how much, champagne is served. You may decide you only want it for a toast. Allow six servings per bottle. If you intend to serve a sparkling wine with dessert, again, allow six servings per bottle.

If you choose to serve champagne throughout your celebration, figure on a half-bottle per person. If you have music and dancing and the party rocks, figure on one to two bottles per person. Think about how that will affect your budget before you finalize your plans.

"It's surprising how much champagne people can go through when they're dancing and working it off," says Stevenson.

Serving tips
Refrigerate sparkling wine for two hours before serving, advises Patrick Fagen, director of the Chicago Wine School. If you're pressed for time, chill a bottle for 15 minutes in the freezer - but stick a note on the freezer door so you don't forget it's in there.

Sparkling wines aren't so fragile as you might suspect. "If you can't finish a bottle just stick it back in the refrigerator standing straight up," says Fegan. "If you have a bit of cork to stick in the top, great. But if you don't, leave it open. It will stay fizzy for a few days."

 

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